Mountaineering
Expedition Rules &
Regulation:
Climbing Permit Fees
(Royalties) and Expedition
Team sizes:
1. The climbers
participating in
mountaineering expedition
has to cross the age of 16
years.
2. The existing season based
concept of mountaineering
and opened whole year for
the same purpose.
Accordingly, mountaineering
time has been determined on
the basis of the height of
the mountain and area
concept.
3.
More than one team is
permitted to climb
Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) in
one season by separate
(non-conventional) routes
each.
4. A royalty of U$ 50,000 is
fixed for Sagarmatha (Mt.
Everest) for a team
consisting of seven members.
The team may include five
further members at a cost of
US$ 10,000 per additional
member. The royalty includes
the trekking fee for all
team members. The team
members will also be granted
a three-month visa.
5. There is an additional
US$ 20,000 charge for teams
proposing to climb Mt.
Everest by the normal
southeast ridge route.
6. Any team already
permitted to scale Mt.
Everest must pay US$ 10,000
if it intends to change its
originally agreed ascent
route. A charge of US$
20,000 applies if it intends
to change the ascent route
to the normal southeast
ridge route.
7. In all other regions,
including Khumbu, an
expedition team can have up
to seven members for the
additional royalty.
Royalty for the
Mountaineering expedition
(A) For the Mount Everest
(Sagarmatha)
(1) The royalty for the
mountaineering expedition
team not exceeding seven in
number from the route other
than the general route
(Southeast route) will be
US$ 50,000.
(2) The royalty for the
mountaineering expedition
from general route
(Southeast route) for the
mountaineering expedition
team will be as follows: -
Member of the mountaineering
expedition team Royalty
(U. S. Dollars):
|
|
25,000
|
|
|
40,000 |
|
|
48,000 |
|
|
56,000 |
|
Five
Members |
60,000 |
|
Six
Members |
66,000 |
|
Seven
Members |
70,000 |
|
Additional
Member (up to 12
person) |
10,000
Per Person |
(3) Other
not more than five members
may be added in the
mountaineering expedition
team beyond the number as it
is mentioned in clause (1)
and (2).
(B) For the other
Mountains: -
(1) The royalty for the
other mountain shall be as
follows: -
|
Mountaineering
Royalty (USD $)
|
|
Name
of the Mountains
|
For
expedition including
up to seven members |
For
each additional member
exceeding seven
members (up to a total
of twelve) |
|
|
10,000 |
1500 |
|
|
4,000 |
500 |
|
Peaks
of 7001 to 7500m |
3,000 |
400 |
|
Peaks
of 6501 to 7000m |
2,000 |
300 |
|
Peaks
of less than 6501m |
1,000 |
200 |
(2) Other
not more than five members
may be added in the
mountaineering expedition
team beside as prescribed in
clause (1).
Note: If
there is any change in the
royalty amount before
receiving the briefing from
the Ministry even after one
has already paid the royalty
under this Regulation, the
mountaineering expedition
team shall pay the changed
amount of the royalty.
The leader of the expedition
team is required to pay the
full amount of the climbing
permit within two months of
the date of climbing. In
cases of failure to pay
within this time period
permission may be annulled.
Environmental
Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks
within the Khumbu Region
must deposit US$ 4,000 for
Everest expeditions, US$
3,000 for other 8,000m peaks
and US$ 2,000 for peaks less
than 8,000m. This deposit is
refundable upon the team
removing all their garbage
on completion of the
expedition.
Liaison Officers:
The primary
function of a liaison
officer is to ensure that
the mountaineering
regulations and laws of
Nepal are adhered to. The
expedition team must cover
all costs of the liaison
officer. This includes
wages, equipment allowance,
transport, meals and
suitable accommodation for
the entire expedition
period. The liaison officer
must also be insured against
accidents.
Filming
Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to
make documentary films of
their climb must obtain
government permission and
pay an associated permit
fee.
Radio and Telephone
Permits:
Operating licenses must be
obtained and paid for to use
two-way radio equipment and
telephones.
Seasons:
There are four main
mountaineering seasons -
spring (March to May),
summer (June to August),
autumn (September to
November) and winter
(December to February).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLIMBING 'TREKKING
PEAKS': - Rules &
Regulation
Climbing
Rules:
In exercise of the
powers conferred by His
Majesty's Government, Nepal
Mountaineering Association
has made the following rules
to be observed for the
climbing of the peaks of
Nepal Himalaya. These rules
will come into force at
once.
Definition:
Where applicable definitions
for these rules will be the
same as those for His
Majesty's Government
Mountaineering Expedition
Regulations 1979 and its
first Amendment 1984.
Permission:
Any person or mountaineering
team desirous of
climbing the peak listed in
Appendix '1' must receive
permission from Nepal
Mountaineering Association.
Application to climb the
peak must be made in the
form as prescribed in
Appendix '2'. Permission to
climb the peaks will be
granted for a period of one
month only. Permission may
be extended, if necessary,
for another period of two
weeks. The period of
permission granted relates
to time spent for climbing
above the base camp. The
trek to and from the base
camp is not included.
Application for climbing
permit may be made at any
time by the concerned
mountaineering team. Permit
will be granted on a first
come first serve basis. Each
climbing party will be given
a permit as prescribed in
Appendix '3'. The right to
give permission to another
party for climbing the same
peak during the same period
is reserved by Nepal
Mountaineering Association.
Nepal Mountaineering
Association will recommend
to Immigration Office of His
Majesty's Government for
obtaining trekking permit of
the area to the team
members.
Refund:
In the event of cancellation
of the permission by NMA or
the failure of the
expedition to materialize
due to some other reasons,
the feels already paid will
not be refunded. Every
individual or party granted
a climbing permit shall be
accompanied by a Sirdar /
Guide, who must be
registered with NMA.
Functions and duties
of the Sirdar/Guide:
a) To assist the
climbing party with
recruitment of porters and
other staff, control of
porters, local purchase of
food, etc. And to solve any
problem that may arise to
the best of his ability.
b) To report to Nepal
Mountaineering Association
in case the party spends
more than the prescribed
time limit in the mountain.
c) To ensure that the
climbers comply with the
terms of their permit.
d) To ensure that the
climbers (trekkers) follow
the specified route.
e) To ensure proper disposal
of waste materials.
f) To report to NMA
any infringement of the
climbing rules.
g) To report any serious
incidents to the nearest
police post. The Sirdar
Guide shall be employed from
the day the climbing party
begins the trek until the
trek is finished. The
Sirdar/Guide will be
provided with the following
facilities:
1. Food and
tent accommodation:
Climbing equipment
and necessary clothing if
required to go above the
base camp.
2. Insurance:
All employees going above
the base camp must be
insured for personal
accident to the value of
Rupees. 200,000.
3. Nomination of
representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted
climbing permit would
nominate representative in
Kathmandu to act as liaison
between NMA and the climbing
party. The representative
may be an individual or an
organization registered with
NMA. The nominated
representative will be
responsible for making
necessary arrangements for
the climbing party in case
of accidents or any other
unforeseen circumstances.
4. Submission of
report:
On the conclusion of the
climb and on return to
Kathmandu, the party will
submit a report to NMA in
the form. Power to cancel
the permit: - NMA may cancel
or withdraw the climbing
permit any time with or
without showing any
particular reason.
Non-compliance of the
regulation: Where any
trekking party acts in
contravention to the
climbing permit or indulges
in acts of unsocial or
outrageous behavior contrary
to the customs and culture
of the people of Nepal, NMA
may recommend to His Majesty
Government to take necessary
measures in accordance with
Article 37 of Mountaineering
Regulations 1979.
5. Protection of
Environment:
Base Camp and
other camps will be left
perfectly clean at the
conclusion of the climb. No
foreign materials, such as
fix rope, pitons, etc shall
be left on the mountain. All
rubbish and waste material
must be burnt or otherwise
disposed off.
6. Revision of the
Regulations:
Any article of this
regulation may be revised or
amended by NMA with prior
permission of Nepal
Government.
Note: All rates
effective from 18 September
2002.
Group "A" NMA
Peaks
Fee
Structure for Group 'A' NMA
Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven
members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional
member up to 12 persons: USD
100.00.
Group "B" NMA
Peaks
| S.N. |
Name
of the Peaks |
Height |
Region |
Permit
Fee (USD $) |
| 1. |
Hiunchuli
Peak |
6441m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 2. |
Singu
Chuli (fluted Peak) |
6501m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 3. |
Mera
Peak |
6654m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 4. |
Kusum
Kangru Peak |
6367m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 5. |
Kwangde
Ri Peak |
6011m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 6. |
Chulu
West Peak |
6419m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 7. |
Chulu
East Peak |
6584m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 8. |
Imja
Tse (Island Peak) |
6169m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 9. |
Pachhermo
Peak |
6187m |
Rolwaling
Himal, Janakpur |
350.00 |
| 10. |
Lobuche
East Peak |
6119m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 11. |
Ramdung
"Go" Peak |
5925m |
Rolwaling
Himal, Janakpur |
350.00 |
| 12. |
Pisang
Peak |
6091m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 13. |
Tharpu
Chuli (Tent Peak) |
5663m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 14. |
Khongma
Tse (Mehra Peak) |
5849m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 15. |
Ganja
La Chuli (Naya Kanga) |
5844m |
Langtang
Himal, Bagmati |
350.00 |
| 16. |
Pokhalde
Peak |
5806m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 17. |
Mardi
Himal |
5587m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 18. |
Paldor
Peak |
5896m |
Langtang
Himal, Bagmati |
350.00 |
Fee
Structure for Group 'B' NMA
Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD
350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD
350.00 + USD 40.00 per
person
Royalty for 9-12 members:
USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per
person
Note: Maximum
number of members in one
team is 12.
Garbage Deposit for
all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD
250.00 payable to NMA is
required to obtain permits
for all 33 NMA peaks.
Refunds on the Garbage
Deposit shall be as per NMA
provisions.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Over
8000 meters Mountains in the
World:
| S.N. |
Mountain |
Height |
First
to Summit |
Date |
Nationality |
Range
/ Location |
| 1. |
Mt.
Everest |
8848m |
Sir
Edmund Hilary &
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa |
May
29, 1953 |
New
Zealander &
Nepalese |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 2. |
Mt.
K2 (Godwinausten) |
8611m |
Achille
Compagnoni
Lino Lacedelli |
July
31, 1954 |
Italian |
Karakoram
/ Pakistan |
| 3. |
Mt.
Kanchanjungha |
8586m |
George
Band
Joe Brown
Norman Hardie |
May
25, 1955 |
British |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 4. |
Mt.
Lhotse |
8516m |
Fritz
Luchsinger
Emest Reiss |
May
18, 1956 |
Swiss |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 5. |
Mt.
Makalu |
8463m |
Jean
Couzy
Lionel Terray
Jean Franco
Guido Magnone
Jean Bouvier
Serge Coupe
Pierre Leroux
Andre Vialatte
Gyalgen Norbu |
May
15, 1955 |
French |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 6. |
Mt.
Cho Oyu |
8201m |
Herbert
Tichy
Sepp Jochler
Pasang Dawa Lama |
October
19, 1954 |
Austrian |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 7. |
Mt.
Dhaulagiri |
8167m |
Kurt
Dimberger
Peter Diener
Emest Forrer
Albine Scelbert
Michel Vaucher
Hugo Webber
Nawang Dorge
Nayan Dorge |
May
13, 1960 |
Swiss |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 8. |
Mt.
Manaslu |
8163m |
Toshio
Imanishi |
May
9, 1956 |
Japanese |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 9. |
| |