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home » nepal » expedition » rules & regular

Mountaineering Rules & Regulation

 
Mountaineering Expedition Rules & Regulation:
Climbing Permit Fees (Royalties) and Expedition Team sizes:

1. The climbers participating in mountaineering expedition has to cross the age of 16 years.

2. The existing season based concept of mountaineering and opened whole year for the same purpose. Accordingly, mountaineering time has been determined on the basis of the height of the mountain and area concept.

3. More than one team is permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) in one season by separate (non-conventional) routes each.

4. A royalty of U$ 50,000 is fixed for Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) for a team consisting of seven members. The team may include five further members at a cost of US$ 10,000 per additional member. The royalty includes the trekking fee for all team members. The team members will also be granted a three-month visa.

5. There is an additional US$ 20,000 charge for teams proposing to climb Mt. Everest by the normal southeast ridge route. 

6. Any team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest must pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change its originally agreed ascent route. A charge of US$ 20,000 applies if it intends to change the ascent route to the normal southeast ridge route.

7. In all other regions, including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to seven members for the additional royalty. 

Royalty for the Mountaineering expedition
(A) For the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha)

(1) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition team not exceeding seven in number from the route other than the general route (Southeast route) will be US$ 50,000.

(2) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition from general route (Southeast route) for the mountaineering expedition team will be as follows: -

Member of the mountaineering expedition team Royalty (U. S. Dollars):

 One Member

 25,000

Two Members

 40,000

Three Members

 48,000

Four Members

 56,000

Five Members

 60,000

Six Members

 66,000

Seven Members

 70,000
Additional Member (up to 12 person)  10,000 Per Person

(3) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beyond the number as it is mentioned in clause (1) and (2).

(B) For the other Mountains: -
(1) The royalty for the other mountain shall be as follows: -

Mountaineering Royalty (USD $)
Name of the Mountains
For expedition including up to seven members For each additional member exceeding seven members (up to a total of twelve)

Peaks above 8,000m 

10,000 1500

Peaks of 7501 to 8,000m

4,000 500

 Peaks of 7001 to 7500m

3,000 400

Peaks of 6501 to 7000m

2,000 300

Peaks of less than 6501m

1,000 200

(2) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beside as prescribed in clause (1).

Note: If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.

The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of the climbing permit within two months of the date of climbing. In cases of failure to pay within this time period permission may be annulled.

Environmental Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks within the Khumbu Region must deposit US$ 4,000 for Everest expeditions, US$ 3,000 for other 8,000m peaks and US$ 2,000 for peaks less than 8,000m. This deposit is refundable upon the team removing all their garbage on completion of the expedition.

Liaison Officers:
The primary function of a liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of Nepal are adhered to. The expedition team must cover all costs of the liaison officer. This includes wages, equipment allowance, transport, meals and suitable accommodation for the entire expedition period. The liaison officer must also be insured against accidents.

Filming Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to make documentary films of their climb must obtain government permission and pay an associated permit fee.

Radio and Telephone Permits:
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for to use two-way radio equipment and telephones.

Seasons:
There are four main mountaineering seasons - spring (March to May), summer (June to August), autumn (September to November) and winter (December to February).
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CLIMBING 'TREKKING PEAKS': - Rules & Regulation
Climbing Rules: 
In exercise of the powers conferred by His Majesty's Government, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya. These rules will come into force at once. 

Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for His Majesty's Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

Permission:
Any person or mountaineering team desirous  of climbing the peak listed in Appendix '1' must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix '2'. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix '3'. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of His Majesty's Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.

Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar / Guide, who must be registered with NMA.

Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:
a) To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
b) To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
c) To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
d) To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
e) To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
f)  To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
g) To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:

1. Food and tent accommodation:
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

2. Insurance:
All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rupees. 200,000.

3. Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted climbing permit would nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

4. Submission of report:

On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the form. Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to His Majesty Government to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

5. Protection of Environment:
Base Camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off. 

6. Revision of the Regulations:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal Government.

Note: All rates effective from 18 September 2002.

Group "A" NMA Peaks

S.N. Name of the Peak Height

Region

Permit Fee (USD $)

1. Mt. Cholatse  6440m Khumbu 500.00
2. Mt. Machermo  6273m Mahalangur 500.00
3. Mt. Kyazo Ri  6186m Mahalangur 500.00
4. Mt. Phari Lapcha  6017m Mahalangur 500.00
5. Mt. Nirekha 6159m Mahalangur 500.00
6. Mt. Langsisa Ri  6427m Jugal 500.00
7. Mt. Ombigaichen 6340m Mahalangur 500.00
8. Mt. Bokta 6143m Kanchenjunga 500.00
9. Mt. Chekigo  6257m Gaurishankar 500.00
10. Mt. Lobuje West 6145m Khumbu 500.00
11. Mt. Larkya Peak 6010m Manaslu 500.00
12. Mt. ABI 6097m Mahalangur 500.00
13. Mt. Yurba Himal 6035m Langtang Himal 500.00
14. Mt. Chhukung Ri 5550m Khumbu 500.00
15. Mt. Yala Peak 5732m Langtang 500.00

Fee Structure for Group 'A' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: USD 100.00.

Group "B" NMA Peaks

S.N. Name of the Peaks Height

Region

Permit Fee (USD $)

1. Hiunchuli Peak 6441m Annapurna Himal, Gandaki 350.00
2. Singu Chuli (fluted Peak)  6501m Annapurna Himal, Gandaki 350.00
3. Mera Peak  6654m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
4. Kusum Kangru Peak 6367m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
5. Kwangde Ri Peak 6011m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
6. Chulu West Peak 6419m Manang District, Gandaki 350.00
7. Chulu East Peak 6584m Manang District, Gandaki 350.00
8. Imja Tse (Island Peak) 6169m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
9. Pachhermo Peak  6187m Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur 350.00
10. Lobuche East Peak 6119m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
11. Ramdung "Go" Peak 5925m Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur 350.00
12. Pisang Peak 6091m Manang District, Gandaki 350.00
13. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663m Annapurna Himal, Gandaki 350.00
14. Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak) 5849m Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha 350.00
15. Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) 5844m Langtang Himal, Bagmati 350.00
16. Pokhalde Peak 5806m

Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha

350.00

17. Mardi Himal 5587m Annapurna Himal, Gandaki 350.00
18. Paldor Peak  5896m Langtang Himal, Bagmati 350.00

Fee Structure for Group 'B' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person

Note: Maximum number of members in one team is 12.

Garbage Deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD 250.00 payable to NMA is required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per NMA provisions.

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Over 8000 meters Mountains in the World:

S.N. Mountain Height First to Summit Date Nationality Range / Location
1. Mt. Everest 8848m Sir Edmund Hilary & Tenzing Norgay Sherpa May 29, 1953 New Zealander & Nepalese Himalayas / Nepal
2. Mt. K2 (Godwinausten) 8611m Achille Compagnoni 
Lino Lacedelli
July 31, 1954 Italian Karakoram / Pakistan
3. Mt. Kanchanjungha 8586m George Band
Joe Brown
Norman Hardie
May 25, 1955 British Himalayas / Nepal
4. Mt. Lhotse 8516m Fritz Luchsinger
Emest Reiss
May 18, 1956 Swiss Himalayas / Nepal
5. Mt. Makalu 8463m

Jean Couzy
Lionel Terray
Jean Franco
Guido Magnone
Jean Bouvier
Serge Coupe
Pierre Leroux
Andre Vialatte
Gyalgen Norbu

May 15, 1955 French Himalayas / Nepal
6. Mt. Cho Oyu 8201m Herbert Tichy
Sepp Jochler
Pasang Dawa Lama
October 19, 1954 Austrian Himalayas / Nepal
7. Mt. Dhaulagiri 8167m

Kurt Dimberger
Peter Diener
Emest Forrer
Albine Scelbert
Michel Vaucher
Hugo Webber
Nawang Dorge
Nayan Dorge

May 13, 1960 Swiss Himalayas / Nepal
8. Mt. Manaslu 8163m Toshio Imanishi May 9, 1956 Japanese Himalayas / Nepal
9.